What I found was different from what I was looking for.
Why I created it
I always thought it was a masterpiece. It had a strong sense of German regionality, with its rationalism, and a high level of design. There was no reason to exclude it from the flight jacket series.
What I referenced
What impressed me when I dug deeper was the holes and bartacks at the armhole bottom, and the structure of the pocket bag.
The holes under the arm were for ventilation, but they also reduced the bulk around the armpit. One specification solved multiple problems simultaneously. And around those holes, hand-sewn bartacks and careful facings were applied. No effort was spared in inconspicuous places.
The specifications speak to their importance.
That's what kind of garment it was.
The structure of the pocket bag was also excellent. It combined fabrics of different sizes at the top and bottom, wrapping the bottom. This was a subtle ingenuity to add strength. The word "rationalism" took shape here too.
What I chose and what I discarded
Initially, I planned to look for goat leather and went to Himeji.
However, after hearing the story from the person in charge, my mind changed. Himeji is a major production area for cow leather. I heard about the significance and thoughts behind handling hides that become meat. I thought if I were to order here, it would have to be cow leather.
While looking for something that had a FUKUBORI feel, I touched a fine-grained kip leather. My heart was moved. That was all it was.
I chose chrome tanning. I had envisioned natural tanned leather, but considering its difficulty to handle, it wouldn't be a kind choice for the customer. After receiving that advice, I switched to chrome.
Please finish it in beige with only dyes.
I want it to be as close to its natural state as possible.
That's what I asked for.
Ultimately, a very small amount of pigment was added to the finish. This was because I was informed that there was a possibility of unevenness, which would be at the very limit of acceptable as a product. I asked them not to use a lot of pigment, but to finish it at the very edge of the acceptable range. That one comment put my mind at ease.
The size has been adjusted to be larger than the original. Other than that, the structure was kept as is.
What this garment is
I went looking for goat, and found kip. I intended for natural leather, and ended up with chrome. What I was looking for and what I found were different.
But I believe that was the right choice. It's leather I wouldn't have found if I hadn't spoken to the people in Himeji. Going to the production area changed my mind. That experience itself became the material for this garment.