A discovery: Japanese work.
The discovery of Japanese workwear.
Why we made it
For my previous flight jacket, I researched items from the former Imperial Japanese Army. I felt a certain pull at that time. Perhaps it's best described as the fascinating appeal of Japanese craftsmanship.
Next, I thought of "Japanese workwear." But what came to mind wasn't the workwear found in big box stores. Toraichi felt too close. When something is too familiar, its structure becomes less apparent.
I thought of the JNR Nappa uniform.
While being a representative example of Japanese workwear,
it exists far from modern clothing production.
That distance became the reason to explore it.
What we referenced
Once I started exploring, I found exactly what I expected, in a good way.
The structure was thoroughly optimized for efficiency. Straight-line patterns. A significant forward-facing curve in the arms. I felt this design philosophy was distinctly Japanese.
And the seven pleats on the cuffs, the watch pocket. The more obvious the detail, the more it's worth questioning why it's there. Things born from function ultimately become the face of the garment.
Another thing I felt was the intention to "make it beautifully." Despite being workwear, it didn't abandon its dignity as a piece of clothing. That integrity remained in every corner of its structure.
What we chose and what we discarded
For the fabric, we selected a 20-count strong-twisted twill from the Nishiwaki production area.
It's a delicate, taut fabric, in stark contrast to Bingo denim. My first impression was "beautiful work twill." That was enough. The intention of the JNR Nappa uniform to "make it beautifully" aligned with the character of this fabric. That's why we chose it.
I hesitated a bit with the sewing. If referencing vintage, chain stitching is the standard. However, the chain stitch locations on this jacket are almost invisible. If they're invisible, that changes things.
Chain stitching is invisible.
Therefore, we chose a sewing method that wouldn't distort the lines of this fabric.
Here, too, we chose "beauty."
Single stitching has less puckering and can sew curves beautifully. The stitching doesn't compromise the fabric's tension. We prioritized dialogue with this material over vintage conventions.
What is this garment?
Japanese vintage, how good is that?
That's my honest impression. There's a kind of quality here that you only discover by digging into it. A unique presence born where efficiency and integrity intersect. I believe the JNR Nappa uniform is a prime example of this.
What FUKUBORI did was simple. We deciphered its structure, reinterpreted it in ecru, and adjusted it into a wearable form for modern life. We didn't add any design. We simply connected the original intent directly to the present.
Wearing the top and bottom together makes that intent even clearer. The "beauty of straight lines" achieved by Japanese workwear is embodied as a set-up.
