Give it shape, then you'll realize.
Following the theme of "FUKUBORI" (digging for clothes), I decided to make coveralls.
I had Lee and PAYDAY on hand. Only PAYDAY had raglan sleeves. That was the deciding factor.
My interest in the raglan structure grew as I worked with the Nappa uniform of the Japanese National Railways. Japanese industrial clothing also opted for raglan sleeves. Two garments from different eras and for different uses arrived at the same answer. I felt a sense of inevitability in that.
Precisely because it's a garment said to be "worn from the shoulders," raglan sleeves embody a strong concept beyond mere design. While it's a structure said to suit everyone, it carries the fate of not being able to completely erase the body's structure at the shoulders. I love that depth.
PAYDAY was a store brand that lived through turbulent times. I don't intend to find any special meaning in it being a store brand, because it's difficult to discern the difference from private labels just from the individual pieces. However, it's certainly something that cannot be avoided when talking about vintage clothing.
What I Referenced
I disassembled it, made a pattern, and sewed it together.
I noticed the mystery of the second buttonhole while trying on the sample after it was finished. I was checking for distortion with the top button closed, and it suddenly caught my eye in that flow.
You don't notice it until you disassemble it and make a pattern.
Sometimes, things only become apparent once the final shape is complete.
The prevailing theory was "for a pocket watch." But when the top button is actually closed, the distance relationship with the slanted hole aligns perfectly. A 2-way mechanism for wind protection. That was the true nature of this small hole. It was a moment when I re-realized the significance of incorporating it into the product.
What I Chose and What I Discarded
The fabric is FUKUBORI's original, SLACK DENIM. The sampling source for the painter's pants, which will be made as a set, was Lee's Jelt Denim. SLACK DENIM is FUKUBORI's reinterpretation of the philosophy behind that Jelt Denim.
The warp is unbleached, and the weft is composed of two light beige threads and one unbleached thread, creating a rhythm. A subtle fluctuation, barely noticeable. That creates depth and warmth within the unbleached fabric.
What is This Garment?
A chain hangs from the watch pocket to the buttonhole.
I imagine people back then would have played around with what kind of chain to use and how to display it. A detail born from function, which gradually became a playful element.
The depth and potential of unbleached fabric.
Embodying the functions and meanings of the past, for today's daily life.
