What seemed like a flaw was actually the correct answer.
What seemed like a flaw was actually the correct design.
Why we made it
From the beginning, it was decided that we would create it simultaneously with the Jacket. The theme this time was to explore Japanese workwear as a top and bottom set.
In addition, I was interested in the structure of tying with a string. This specification is also seen in Japanese military items, and it had intrigued me even before delving into it. Tightening the waist with a string. I wanted to decipher the basis of that design philosophy from the actual items.
What we referenced
Two things stood out to me when I researched it: the scarcity of pockets and the structure of the waistband facing.
The facing was a long, narrow rectangle, with the selvedges of the fabric used as they were at both ends. The design allowed for length adjustment by folding it at the back center. It was rational, straightforward, and typical of workwear construction. However, since FUKUBORI does not use selvedge fabric, we could not fully adopt this specification. I want to honestly record it as a part that I referenced but could not fully achieve.
What we chose and what we discarded
For pockets, there's only a flapped patch pocket on the right back and a watch pocket on the right front. Effectively, you could say there's only one.
I always hesitate. But adding elements to make things more convenient goes against FUKUBORI's rules. Only by adhering to them is it FUKUBORI.
Having few pockets is inconvenient.
However, when worn, there is no stress of thickness around the waist.
What I thought was a flaw was actually a different kind of comfort.
The fabric is the same 20/2 strong twist twill as the Jacket. By wearing the same fabric for both top and bottom, the intention of "making it beautifully," which Japanese workwear possessed, is embodied in the setup.
What this garment is
The waist is over 100cm. Yet, the seat is sleek.
Despite being workwear, it has a beautiful silhouette like trousers. At first, it seemed contradictory. But from a pattern perspective, this is not a contradiction. It is precisely because the waist is large that the rise stands up, creating a beautiful, straight-falling seat curve. Being large was the correct answer.
Within an inconvenient structure, there is a correct design.
The continuation of the discovery that is Japanese workwear is here.
What FUKUBORI did was simple. We deciphered the structure of the time, recreated it in unbleached fabric, and adjusted it to a form that can be worn in modern life. We left what appeared to be flaws, as flaws.
Wear it and realize. What you thought was inconvenient, was actually the correct design.
