A blueprint of longing.
Admiration. I think this denim jacket is the best fit for this word.
I’ve mentioned in various places that the 557 has had the biggest influence on my work.
So why wasn't the first denim jacket a 557 style?
The answer lies in this admiration.
The 506XX was made across wartime.
It was made with an unparalleled level of transition.
I absolutely love the process of transition. I believe the first denim jacket FUKUBORI makes should indeed be a Type 1.
About the Prototype
As mentioned, it's a transitional item, so it can't simply be summed up as "506XX." The version we sampled this time is the late model from just after the war.
One major reason is that I haven't thoroughly explored pre-war and wartime vintages to my satisfaction, but additionally, I wanted to adopt "a period of completion."
What We Chose and What We Discarded
In the sampling process, we first made a slight modification to the silhouette.
Of course, within the scope of editing.
Specifically, we decided to adjust the length by 1.5 cm, and subtly touch the armhole and sleeve cap curves where the sleeves attach.
Vintage jackets have short lengths.
While that's part of their charm, I don't want them to be too difficult to wear.
It's sometimes said that the 506XX has sleeves attached in a T-shape, but I think that's an exaggeration.
As a slight resistance to that, I made an adjustment to slightly angle the sleeves forward.
Vintage sleeves twist, so the appearance of the left and right sleeves changes anyway, and I thought a little playfulness like that wouldn't hurt.
Regarding the specifications, I'm approaching it with a "see it through" determination. Even if it's called inefficient, I'll do it as long as I'm not convinced it's impossible.
This time, we were able to reach a satisfactory level with the pockets, the one-stitch flap, and the collar attachment.
About the Fabric
Regarding the fabric, I'm not aiming to reproduce the original. I often choose fabrics that are similar in image, but only in terms of their general characteristics.
This time, we're using a rare fabric woven with the same count for both warp and weft, specifically count 8 for both.
Denim usually changes the count (thickness) of the yarn to create irregularities and texture in the warp and weft.
FUKUBORI prints on the back of the fabric.
We promote the joy of looking inside.
The inside is the outside, and the outside is the outside.
With such an ideology, the moment I encountered a fabric with the same warp and weft, I wanted to adopt it.
Not "the outside is the inside and the inside is the outside," but
"the inside is the outside, and the outside is also the outside."
If the warp and weft are the same, denim tends to look too clean, but this fabric clears that hurdle due to the yarn's irregularities.
The Finished Appearance
I felt it was a completely contemporary garment imbued with the scent of vintage. It's clothing made by us, who contemplate and explore vintage and are currently involved in manufacturing. Combined with the power of raw fabric to reveal structure without concealing it, I want to be proud that this is truly FUKUBORI.
Even though it's undyed, I want you to wear it a lot and get it dirty without worry. It's undyed, but it's still denim.
That said, stains will show up, so be careful. Even so, I hope you enjoy the marks as your own traces.